Kapsaliana: Hotel with A Village at Heart

“Are we there yet?” I asked my driver, who seemed to have gotten lost. He kept driving in circles on the winding roads of rural Arkadi for about an hour, even after seeking help from a local farmer. I’m used to taking off-the-beaten paths in search of boutique hotels. But encountering another ‘adventure’ on my way to Kapsaliana Village Hotel was unexpected.

Eventually, we reached the hotel following step-by-step instructions from the receptionist, who was relieved when we arrived. Later, she explained that the driver was familiar with this route. However, due to road construction, he had to take a detour, which caused some confusion. At the time, I was exhausted and starving. But after seeing the charming village-like resort and having a Michelin-rated meal at the restaurant, I realized this ‘adventure’ was worth it.

Perched high in the mountains above Rethymno and embraced by Crete’s largest olive grove, Kapsaliana Village Hotel offers a picturesque retreat. The resort has been painstakingly built on remnants of a small but vibrant 17th-century settlement. It had stood in disrepair until the 1990s when Myron Toupoyannin, a born-and-raised Cretan, recognized its potential. He then acquired Kapsaliana’s dilapidated houses and transformed the area into a stately resort.

A spectacular revival of a Cretan village.

The meticulous restoration is a work in progress. Myron collaborates solely with native artisans who use time-honored techniques and local materials to uphold the village’s authentic charm. The outcome is the spectacular revival of an idyllic Cretan village comprising twenty-five traditional houses hewn from stone and a separate villa. They position around an 18th-century olive mill featuring stone arches, a stone press, and pitharia (clay storage vessels).

An outdoor pool flanked by shrubs and flowers adds a refreshing touch to the resort, while an orchard filled with herbs and lemon trees brings in the fresh fragrance of nature. The property is tastefully decorated with local pottery, flower pots, and original farm tools. Adding to that is a small chapel that blends seamlessly into the resort, transforming Kapsaliana into a village.

The rooms are named after stars and constellations, each exuding a charming rustic feel with earth-toned decor, farmhouse furniture, and wooden ornaments. The bed is exceptionally comfortable and graced with a sachet of lavender. Meanwhile, the cozy bathroom features a terrazzo tiled shower and luxurious olive oil bath amenities.

Larger rooms like Perseus, Lyra, or Sirius boast a living area separated by classic stone arches. Others, like my room, Altair, accessible via a stone staircase, offer a private terrace with spectacular views of the estate, lush olive groves, and the Mediterranean Sea.

It’s not exaggerated to say that the food alone is worth a trip to the Kapsaliana Village Hotel. They are simple, made with just a few ingredients, yet explode with flavors. Think charcoal-grilled eggplant, slow-cooked lamb in a casserole, and Galaktoboureko – a traditional pastry filled with custard and flavored with citrus fruit. As for breakfast, it’s a wholesome feast with homemade baked goods, assorted granola, a selection of cheese, and refreshing seasonal juices.

All dishes are made only with organic, locally sourced ingredients, and the quality of which shines through every bite. They are served taverna-style, without fuss or formality, in an atmospheric stone building with chunky wooden table and chair, cream-colored walls, exquisite tapestries, and a wood-burning fireplace.

Nestled in the green heart of Crete, Kapsaliana Village Hotel offers guests easy access to the island’s wild beauty. Just beyond the lodge’s entrance, visitors can explore the popular Arkadi Gorge hiking trail leading to the historic Akradi Monastery, approximately five kilometers away. This Venetian church, dating back to the 16th century, played a significant role in Crete’s resistance against the Ottoman Empire during the 19th century.

If you have your vehicle, you can travel further to the ruins and the museum of Eleutherna – an ancient inland city. Then head to the lovely pottery village of Margarites before making your way to Rethymno – a Venetian port town from which this region takes its name. Finally, return to the resort and have a splash in the turquoise-colored pool.